This Whirlpool 2-in-1 Top Load Washer is a beast, but when it starts bouncing like a pogo stick or roaring like a jet engine, you need a plan. We are tearing this VMAX machine down to the frame to expose the notorious failure points, from the stripped wash plate splines to the "death rattle" gear case bearings. Stop guessing at error codes and learn exactly how to strip this unit in under 20 minutes.
/// TOOLS YOU'LL NEED
- 1/4" Nut Driver
- 5/16" Nut Driver
- 7/16" Socket
- 10mm Socket
- T30 Torx Bit
- Small Flathead Screwdriver
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Spanner Wrench
- 3-4 lb Sledgehammer
- Impact Driver (Recommended)
STEP 1: Back Panel & UI Board "Pliers Hack"
Start by removing the 1/4" screws on the rear top panel and the wire cover. Gabriel drops a massive pro tip here: instead of fighting with a putty knife to pop the User Interface (UI) board from the top, lift the console slightly and use pliers to squeeze the retaining clips from underneath. This saves you from scratching the console or snapping tabs. Once the clips are compressed, flip the UI board back to expose the control board and main harness.
⚠️ STEP 2: Lid Lock & Water Valve Removal
With the top deck released, focus on the lid lock—a guaranteed failure point if the customer is a "lid slammer." Remove the bezel clips, depress the tab with a flathead, and fish the harness out. For the water valve, remove the two coarse-threaded 1/4" screws. Watch out for the pinch connections on the harness; don't yank them. If you see a steady drip in the tub when the machine is off, this valve is toast.
⚠️ STEP 3: Agitator & Wash Plate Extraction
Remove the 2-in-1 agitator by squeezing the release and turning counter-clockwise. Underneath, you'll find a 7/16" bolt holding the wash plate. Zip that off with an impact driver. If the wash plate doesn't agitate but the motor runs, check the metal insert underneath—the splines strip out constantly. Once the plate is out, use your spanner wrench and sledgehammer to break the tub nut loose (counter-clockwise).
STEP 4: Under-Tub Components: Motor & Clutch
Lean the machine back or lay it on a blanket. You need to strip the bottom to drop the gear case. Remove the drain pump (held by three 5/16" screws) and the T30 Torx bolt holding the rotor. The rotor is magnetic, so give it a firm tug to walk it off. Zip off the 7mm bolts for the magnetic clutch and the 10mm bolts for the stator. Inspect the stator windings for burns and the clutch for leaking grease.
⚠️ STEP 5: Gear Case Removal ( The Sledgehammer Method)
With the stator and clutch gone, remove the final 10mm bolts securing the gear case. On these Whirlpool VMAX models, the gear case often seizes in place due to rust or bad bearings. Don't be shy—take your 4lb sledgehammer and beat the gear case shaft downward to drive it out of the tub. Once it drops, you can pull the entire stainless steel basket out. If you hear a roaring sound during spin, this gear case is the culprit.
⚠️ STEP 6: Suspension Rod Replacement
If the tub bounces like crazy, replace the suspension rods. Reach into the cabinet, lift the rod slightly to unhook the top cup, and rotate it through the slot to remove. There are four rods total. You can try to grease the foam inserts, but replacement is the only permanent fix for an out-of-balance machine.
🏁 The Final Step: Job Well Done
Ready to fix it properly?
SHOP ALL PARTS FOR THIS UNITGABE'S PARTS LOADOUT
The exact OEM parts and tools used in this breakdown.
Maytag Washer Suspension Rods W11400156
Maytag Washer Gear Case / Transmissions W11449841
Washer Stators - Motor W11195971
Whirlpool Washer Wash Plates W11510461
Whirlpool Washer Power Cords W11551294
Maytag Washer Wiring Harnesses W11568984
Whirlpool Washer Misc. Parts W11595805
Whirlpool Washer Control Boards W11621180
